These villages are situated on the eastern side of the Nubra Valley, which is located 80 km from the Headquarter of Nubra. These villages are some of the most difficult locations in terms of accessibility and the harsh climate as it is located at altitude ranging from 15000-16500 ft above sea level. These villages are scattered in such a way that in order to go from one village to another, it takes one day of trekking or probably more then that.  People from outside often tend to think, why did they settle in such isolated areas where they have to be self sufficient in order to sustain their life?  Even to buy a matchstick they have to walk down their village over many high ridges.

Although the government has built a small primary health centre in one of these villages, nobody is willing to work there. The hospital is sitting vacant without a doctor since it has been built.  To my amazement, people residing there are strong and tough. Their physical stamina is amazing and they are quite healthy except that most of the old aged peoples are suffering from osteoarthritis of knee, which is quite understandable because of high terrains and steep trails.

22/02/2011
7:44am

I started off all alone from my hospital and I was anxious as usual. For a moment, I wished that somebody accompany me as I knew that there is a long and arduous path waiting for me. The only source of encouragement was the book which I was reading the previous night – Torch of Life, an autobiography of Aunt Ida Scudder. The sky was cloudless as I had hoped.

8:52am

I met a lady with the herd of yaks in a place called Rongjuk. The road ahead was in a terrible condition and it took me more than half an hour to cross 100 meters distance as I had to get down after every inch to make sure that the car is not getting hit by protruding rocks. It was horrible. I began to worry whether my car will get back home in one piece or not.

9:48am

I reached to a place called Khungru where I parked my car. The road ahead was not suitable for a small car like mine as told by a villager. This place is located in a deep valley from where I had to climb to the top of the ridge to get to Digger Village.  I was quite lucky in that I got a ride in a truck which was going to a same destination.

10:20 am

I reached Digger village. I was very happy for the reason that I made it to this village much earlier then I thought. For the moment, I was stunned by looking at this village. It was very cold and windy. I got down from the truck and went straight away to the Primary Health Center. I met a villager and requested him to inform the entire villager to gather at the PHC.

10:38am

First patient came, an old lady with severe joint pain. Gradually, more and more patients started flowing in. Every other villager was complaining of joints pain and non-specific body ache. I met an old lady who had never been outside her village in her entire lifetime.  I felt great pity for her and I asked her to come along with me but she refused. I treated 56 patients altogether. The clinic was finished at 12:34pm

12:40 pm

I asked all the women to gather outside the building for the talk. I spoke with them about osteoarthritis, hypertension, acid peptic disease and cervical cancer. They were listening very attentively. It was such a great feeling to teach them in such a remote area. Deep inside, I could feel the temptation for me to move move my medical career to a large urban hospital fading away.

12:56 pm

The villagers provide me lunch and offered me chang (local barley brewed bear) too. It was very delicious. I bid them goodbye and started moving on foot downhill where my car was parked.

2:14pm

It took me more then one hour to reach my car. I got into it and started moving toward the next village called Khema. My car could not take me beyond 4kms as the road ahead was covered with ice..

Moreover, dark clouds were looming in and I was wondering what to do. If it starts snowing then I might get struck up here in nearby village for many days. I was not sure of how much time it will take me to reach the next village as I have never been to Khema before.

2:27pm

Anyway, I started on foot with a heavy load of medicines in my back pack. There was a steep road ahead. I followed the motor road which was of no use for now. My mind was buzzing with questions??  What if it becomes dark before I reach the village? What if I lost my way?  What if I encounter a snow leopard?  Oh Gosh!!!!! Bottom line, I was damn scared on this lonely route.

3:42pm

Halfway up, I stopped to rest before assaulting the steeper zigzag path leading to the village. I managed to climb up the steep mountain. When I got onto the top, I could feel my heart thumping against my chest wall like the beating of a drum and I realized what palpitation is like. I was breathing my lungs out with a heavy load on my back. I threw my bag on the ground and lied down on a rock to catch some breath. I was looking up and staring at the cloudy sky with snowflakes dancing down to my numbed face.

4:11pm

After a short walk, I could see the village at the foot of the snow covered mountain with a large barren plateau, it was like as close to heaven as any place on earth. I started moving faster and I could feel no weight on my back due to the eagerness to reach the village as fast as possible. For a moment, my head stop buzzing with any more fears and contemplation for I knew that I can make it to my next village before dusk.

4:20pm

I met Ajang Tsewang Katongpa, who is a good friend of my father. He guided me to his home and immediately he sent a messenger to announce to the entire village to gather at his home as soon as possible. Without wasting any more time, I unpacked all the medicine and arranged them out on the table. No sooner had I finished gulping down the butter tea he offered the patients started flowing in. I treated 27 peoples with minor ailments.

5:10pm

My host was so good to me and his fellow villagers that he allowed me to give the health education in his living room. The room was big enough to accommodate 50 people. As usual, I talked about various minor ailments, real nature of disease and the mode of prevention. They were listening so attentively that in between, I was wondering, if they are just staring at me with curiosity or actually following my words. At the end, I could make out that they had understood. They offered me a khatak (traditional white scarf) and advised me to spend the night in the village. But I politely refused and decided to move on.

6:10 pm

I reached back to my car which was parked deep down the valley. I found out that there was a shortcut to get back. Had I known this route, I would have saved a lot of time climbing up.  It was damn cold and the temperature was hitting minus 18. I got into my car and sped off to next village but the rough condition of the road would allow my car to move at snail pace.

7:40pm I reached my next destination, the Tangyar Village. It was already dark and snowing. A cousin of mine was waiting for me to arrive. Ache Rinchen directed me to her nice and cozy home. Her two sons, Sonam Stanzin and Stanzin Zangpo were excited to see me at their home. When I unloaded my bag, I could feel the gnawing back pain caused by carrying it all day long. When I reflected back on the day events, I felt really good and it encourages me to stay on and fight the battle until the last woman hears my message.

9:40pm  Had a delicious dinner with my cousin and we talked about various problems faced by villagers. Outside, wind was blowing and pushing the snows against the window. It is said to be auspicious when a person arriving in a village is welcome by a fresh snowfall.

Day 2

6:30am

I woke up and looked out of the window.  The whole village was laden under a blanket of snow. I went out for a stroll with my camera.  The village seems like a picturesque hamlet, set on the mud crag, crowned with a monastery. The houses were built so close to each other that one could jump from the one roof to another. It’s central feature was a monastery which was built in 15th century, and subsequent years made it famous by the preservation of the body of Tibetan yogi called Panchen Nubrapa in one of the stupa inside the monastery. I climbed up to the top of the mountain where the monastery was located. The bird’s eye view of the village was breathtaking and it would always be engraved in my memory.

8:00am

I met the headman of the village, Mr. Motup Dorjay and briefed him about the purpose of visit. I then went back to have a breakfast. His wife prepared puri (oil fried bread) and omelet. It reminded me of my beloved mother who always used to make it especially for me.  Anyhow, then I packed my stuff and headed toward the community hall, where I was expecting people to gather for the health check up and education.

9:20am

By the time I made it to community hall, a crowd was waiting and soon I was in the whirl of people, writing their names, diagnosing and then doing all the treatments. It was hectic and tiresome. I was sorely in the need of a trained assistant. 35 people attended the clinic. The clinic was soon followed by health education.

11:35am

Morning was resplendent with beauty and so I set out really enjoying the scenery while I made my way back to the valley. A long hard drive was waiting for me before I hit the next village. The anxious cloud of difficult road ahead was looming over my head. For miles and miles I could not see a single living creature. Oh! I wished for a fellow companion.

1:00pm    Before I entered into the area where the condition of the road was bad, I couldn‚Äôt believe my eyes as I saw someone. I stopped my car and found out that he was leading in the same direction as I was. His name was Tsultim, an angel in disguise sent by god to help me out. Indeed, he helped me a great deal to get my car out of the treacherous road which I couldn‚Äôt have done it alone. Thanks Tsultim!!!

1:45pm

I reached my next stop, where I met Dr. Tsewang Chorol, who had come to Khalsar Village to see some patients. She was with Government Ambulance and one Nursing orderly. Here we exchanged cars.  I told her to use my car to get back and allow her staff and ambulance to stay with me until I finished my next visit. She happily agreed to this plan.

02:17pm

I along with Mr. Namgyal and the nursing orderly started on foot to my next destination called Tsati Village. We asked the ambulance driver to wait for us to return. We could see the village but in between us lay the great Shayok River with a span of 5 KTMs and poorly yet interestingly built bridge to cross over. It took us one hour reach Tsati Village. A tiresome trekking with a heavy bag loaded with medicine.

Tsati Village:  this village is located on the eastern bank of Shayok River, the village is well known for having limestone mountains, the only source to the valley to whitewash the houses, monasteries etc. In the olden silk route days, trade caravans used to cross the Shayok river from this village. Centuries ago, this village used to be a rest stop for the silk route traders.

02:30pm

We kick started our village clinic in the village community hall. We treated 30 patients with minor ailments. Following which, we started our health education on cervical cancer, hypertension, osteoarthritis, acid peptic diseases and health record system. At the end, I could make out from their faces that they have gained something.

4:45pm

The village health clinic and education camp was finished. We were invited to one of the villager’s house for dinner.  Our host’s name was Mr. Yountan. He served us rice, boiled egg and dals. I was really moved by his hospitality.

5:24pm

We headed back to the place where the ambulance was parked. We had to follow the same route of one hour journey on foot across the Shayok River. I gave my bag to Mr. Namgyal to carry as my body was no longer in the state of moving ahead with back pack, but the thought of the day events kept me moving ahead.

06:36pm

I got back in the ambulance and rushed back to my place. It was already dark out side but I was satisfied and content with my interaction with so many people in such a short period of time.

7:45pm

I reached back to the starting point and I realized that it was exactly a 48 hour marathon.

That’s all.

We are extremely honored and grateful that The Himalayan Women’s Health Project has been designated as the recipient of all proceeds raised during the event.

Dr Chua Yang and Dr Myra Elliott, two of the founders of the project will be guests of honor at the event and share the progress made thus far and discuss the objectives of the upcoming major mission to Ladakh in August 2011.

Warmest gratitudes to everyone who helped make this extraordinary event possible!

Next week:With the blessing of few sunny days, the condition of road has improved. So Dawa and I decided to make a village trip. This weekend, we have chosen one of the remotest villages on the northern side of valley, which is connected by a motorable road as it is located close to Siachen Glacier. This time we decided to use a private car to get there as there was no bus service at all.

2:45pm 11/12/2010

We started from our Hospital. Dawa made sure that we had carried all the necessary items for the trips such as medicine, food, sleeping bags.  First we went to one of the Government office to take permission to use the rest house which is close to our destination.

3:00pm

We met the Government official, discussed our intention and permission for the rest house for two nights. After listening to us, he asked his secretary to issue an order to use the rest house at Panamik. We thanked him and set off from Disket.

3:15pm

As soon as we left Disket Village, we came across our first and expected obstacle. Road ahead was not in the condition to cross over by car, although, the road worker were busy clearing it. We asked one of the workers if there is any ways to go across in car. He directed us off road to a trail of car on the snow laden plain area. We took the off road and after a while, we came across a point where trail on which we were driving diverges into two different directions. We didn’t know which way to follow, as both the trails were leading in almost same direction and therefore, our judgment had no role to play. So we took a coin, fling it in air, head we go left, tail we go right. It was head and we took the left one.

3:35pm,

We were driving at snail pace and after 20 minutes of drive on the left sided trail, we faced yet another obstacle. There was a channel ahead of us which was beyond our cars‚ no capability to pass across. So, we had no other choice but to take a chance on the tail option.

4:00pm

We are still struck in the whirlpool of trails. We took the other route, lo! We could see this route meeting the main road at a stone throw distance. I felt so frustrated at our head & trail decision.

7:20pm

We reached Panamik Village. We went to meet the manager of the rest house and he provided us the best room. Panamik’s rest house is famous in Nubra valley for having a direct water pipe connection with hot sulphur spring. It has facility of hot bath tub and the entire flooring is laid down on the pipeline of hot spring water. Anyway, it was such a relaxing to enter a nice warm room. We unloaded our luggage. We decided to meet Dr. Padma as her clinic is located close by the rest house.

7:40pm

Met Dr. Padma in her hospital. We discussed about the future strategies of the Himalayan Women’s Health project. We had tea and cookies at her residence and then we left for our niche. She invited us back for a dinner at her place.

8:00pm

We had a guest in our rest house, project coordinator of social welfare, Mr. Spalgon who had visited all the villages on the northern side of Nubra valley and came to stay overnight here. He was doing a survey on the number of old people without any source of income and at the same time, he was giving meager amount of financial support to the same old people. It was indeed, a productive meeting as we got a clear picture of villages we are visiting. He was moved by the poor living standard of many people in and around the valley. He gave us the list of people who need medical help and the addresses of home we must visit.
9:00 pm

We had dinner at Dr. Padma’s residence. She served us Ladakhi dish called skyu.
9:30pm.

We reached back to our room and took a much needed bath. Normally, in ladakh, people don’t take bath for weeks together as temperature and the infrastructure is not suitable. It is said that, one can have both frostbite and sunstroke at a same time in Ladakh.
Day 2
6:00 am,

We woke up and got ready for village visit. We packed all the medicine in our car and as usual we were bit anxious about the day.

6:15am

We started out from the rest house. It was very cold outside. Temperature was minus 18 and sky was clear. Expected a bright sunny day, which is what we wanted. We drove through the deep gorges and navigated through the black trail of metallic road, which leads to the highest battle field in the world called Siachen Glacier.  Both Pakistan and Indian government spends millions and millions of dollars to station their army on either side of this glacier. Thousands of army man lay down their life fighting the harsh climate. We were wondering why both the country comes upon agreement to redraw their border to a better place.

8:20am

We reached to one our destination called Tongsted village. We parked our car at roadside and started out on foot with back pack to close by government’s medical aid center.  We met a lady as soon as we stepped into village. We told her to inform all the women to gather at community hall at 12:30 pm as we had to make a visit to the village on the other side of the bank of river.

8:40 am

We were on the sandy river bed, heading toward the village called Nungsted. It was quite difficult to walk on the sand with icy cold wind blowing right on the face. On top of it, my stomach was rumbling with hunger pain as we had no provision for breakfast. So I was thinking, only if could get something to eat on reaching the village otherwise I will absolutely be drain out of energy.  After a twenty minute walk we took a rest on the bank of river watching the valley leading to Siachen Glacier.

9:10 am

We crossed over the bridge, our village was quiet close. we could see some houses and a white stupa, facing down to us. We decided to enter the village via area next to stupa. As generally, stupa are constructed on the places where two three roads meets or across the main road so that more and more people can circumabulate.

9:40 am

We entered the village and met a lady who was taking her livestock for grazing. We asked her the way to the house of women alliance’s member. We were so lucky, as she told us that all the women are already gathered in school compound for a mass prayer. So, we headed directly to school with the hope we would get something to eat.

10:06 am

We reached the school and only saw three women. They told us that people are yet to gather, although they have been given the time for 9:45am. One of the women went out to ask people to gather as soon as possible. Another woman went to her home to get us some hot tea, so we asked her to get something to eat as well. One woman started cleaning the hall of the school for people to gather. Both of us unpacked over bag and arrange for the health check up and education. Dawa put up the banner on the wall.

10:30 am

We had tea and cookies. Started examining patients for common ailments like Hypertension, Osteoarthritis, acid peptic disease, eye infection, headache, toothache etc.  It took me one hour before we started our women health education.

11:30am

Beside cervical cancer, I talked about all the common diseases and the mode of prevention. As usual we had a very positive response from them. Although, there was some hesitation among them to ask question about cervical cancer but they were asking lots of question about other common diseases.

12:14

We are done with health education. We took a final group snap and started back on foot.  It was wonderful and a very good feeling to see them smiling and waving as we walked out of school’s compound.

12:30pm

We were walking very fast as we asked the previous villager to gather at 12:30pm. I asked Dawa to come slowly and I will try to make it to next village as soon as possible lest people should not be dispersed thinking that we might have changed our plan.

1:18 pm

I reached next village, Dawa was mile behind and was walking in a way as if he will fall down next moment. I waved him to walk fast and he didn’t respond. I knew that he was ignoring me and swearing at me.

1:30pm

To my amazement, everyone was waiting for us and one of the villagers guided me to the house next to the community hall. He felt sorry for my condition as I was panting and sweating. He asked me to take rest and told me that villagers will wait. Villager had prepared lunch for us. Now, I was swearing at Dawa as I wanted him to reach as soon as possible so that I could start eating something.

1:40pm

We had a very delicious lunch.  They had prepared three varieties of dishes. It was one of the best foods ever I had in recent time.

2:00pm

We started the health check up and around 60 peoples including children turned out. There were few old men who also came for health check up. We ran out of medical stock and noted down the drugs required for few people, whom we could give medication to. We told him that we will send them the medication from the hospital as soon as we get back. Village head man requested us to make a home visit to one of the villagers, who is sick and unable to attend the clinic.

2:40pm

We started our health education regarding the cervical cancers. We had a good response from the women as usual. Some of the old mans who came for health check up was also present as we could not ask them to leave. We took a group snap and then we headed to the house with a sick old woman.

3:32pm

We reached the house, where an old woman was sitting outside. She was sick for last one week and she refused to go to hospital. She had cough with expectoration and swelling of feet. I treated her for the provisional diagnosis of congestive heart failure. I told them I will send government ambulance to pick her up to hospital as soon as possible. We were quite upset by the condition in which she was living. She could have never made to hospital had we not paid visit to these villages. Thanks to HWHP.

4:10 pm

We headed to next small hamlet on the way back. Only 6 women managed to gather as rest of them had gone to collect woods from the sea buck throne forest. In Nubra valley, villagers are allowed to cut wood from the forest on certain selected day. Our visit coincides with that particular selected day. Anyway, we talk to them and educate them about cervical cancer and women’s health in general.

4:48pm

We drove back to the government rest house at Panamik where we spent the previous night. We decided to head back to hospital next early morning in order to make it to hospital in time.

6:10pm

Reached back to Panamik Village, we went to Dr. Padma’s residence straight away and discussed with her regarding day event. She was sitting in her office with other staff member.  We informed her about the lady with the CCF and other patients in need of medication. She assured us that she will get the things done.

6:45pm

We were back in our rest house right away I jumped into hot bath tub and lied down for next 45 minute. It was so relaxing! It is quiet unbelievable for anyway who has spent winter in Ladakh to imagine someone relaxing in bath tub at this point of time, when the temperature outside is minus 20.

8:00 pm

We had dinner in Dr. Padma’s residence.

9:40pm

Back in room and went to bed.

Day 3
6:30am

Headed back to our hospital.

1:29pm:

Me and  Dawa set to make our Visit to a village called Charasa and other villages nearby. Charasa village is located 80 kms away from Disket. But in winter time, people cross over the frozen bed of Siachen river, which cut short the distance by half. So, our plan was to take public bus up to the village opposite to Charasa village and then to cross over the river and to stay overnight their and to visit the neighboring villages as well. Anyway, we started in the afternoon to catch the bus which leaves at 2:30 pm .

2:24pm :

We got into bus. It was jam packed with passengers and luckily, we had asked a patient of mine who visited me in the hospital to keep two seats reserved for me and Dawa. He kept a front seat next to driver for me and seat behind for Dawa. Before the bus started it engine two more people squeeze in between me n driver, which is otherwise supposed to be empty.

2:40PM:

After fifteen minutes of journey in Bus, I realized that there was no space for me to move my legs; it was as if though I have been tied down to seat. I looked back to Dawa and he was in no better situation. After a while, conductor came to me with his body twisted into four different direction and was asking for a ticket. Bad to worst, my cash was in jeans pocket and there was no way I could take it out. So I asked him, I’ll pay it later on.

3:20pm:

Reached third bus stop, a monk saw me sitting in the bus .He greeted me and navigated toward me through the crowed bus. He asked me; where I am leading. I told him my plan. After listening to me, he plead me to visit his monastery, it seems around 30 novices of the monastery is down with sore throat. I discussed with Dawa because visiting the monastery means change in our tour plan. Anyhow, we decided that we will visit the monastery.

3:56pm:

We reached Kaygar Village, where we had to get down to visit the monastery. This village is three villages ahead of our planned boarding off village. So, we started walking toward Samtanling Monastery, which lies 1.5 km from the bus stop. After 10 minute walking, we got a lift in Toyota car. Inside the car, soft Hindi music was playing which was very conducive for our mood.

4:10pm:

We started the health check up of the novices.  34 children were treated for Upper respiratory tract infection. Most of our antibiotics and cough syrup got over, which means we will ran out of medical stock on visiting two villages. Although, our plan was to hit at least 3 villages along with Charasa.

6:35pm

Health check up got over and we were back on road. It was getting dark, chill wind was blowing outside and was wondering where to stay. So, we decided to stay overnight in the same village. We met a villager on the way asked him, if we could stay in their home. He recognized me and invited to his home.

7:00pm

We unpacked our luggage Our host, Mr. Lobzang, served us hot butter tea and local bread. He owns a nice and cozy home, but lacking cross ventilation and air was thick with smoke. All I cared was, it was warm and the mouth watering aroma of the food which was being prepared on the chulla (iron box with chimney on which cooking is done).

8:30pm

We had a delicious dinner and had a long conversation about the host’s grand parents who was working as potter cum guide during the silk route time. As this part of the Nubra Valley was once part of the silk trade route between Xianjang province (Khotan) and Kashmir. Later on, we tried making telephone call to the villages we wanted to visit next day but in vain. So the owner suggested us to visit the village called Burma, which lies just opposite to his village across the river instead of Charasa Village.

10:10pm

Off to bed.

DAY 2:
6:00am

Got up and packed up everything. It was very cold outside, temperature out side was minus 15, sky was clear though.

6:45am

Had a breakfast, our host suggested us to follow the footstep and showed us the direction in which the temporary bridge is laid down by the villager. He also told us that a carpenter from the opposite village will be coming from the opposite direction and he will help out to find the way. We bade him farewell and left some Paracetamol tablets.

7:20 am:

We met a villager who was taking his livestock for grazing. We greeted him and asked for the way to Burma Village. It was a beautiful morning; the trail of dust raised by the cows walking behind with the beam of sunlight through poplar trees was breath taking view.

8:00 am

8:40 am

Finally we crossed the main bridge on the Siachen river and we could see the Burma Village.

9:40am

Reached Burma village. We met a boy on a cycle, who guided us to the house of village head. We met him and he took us to community hall and sent two persons to call all the women. Meanwhile, he served us tea and biscuit.

10:00am

We started our health check up and it took us more then one hour as every villager wanted to get their health check up and we couldn’t refuse. In our back of our mind, we were wondering if we could make it to next village or not.

11:45am

We started our health education on cervical cancer and women’s health on general. They were listening very carefully and we could make out from their face. There was very good response at the end of session as each and every woman came to us and thanked us. Many of them asked, if they could get a screening test for cervical cancer next day

12:40pm

Health education got over finally and villager were inviting us for lunch but we had constrained of time. We took a final group snaps. And then, we started off to Charasa village. It took us one and half hours to reach Charasa. We were hungry and tired when we reached Charasa village.

2:20pm

Reached Charasa Village, a historical village. This village was once the winter palace of king of Ladakh. We could see the majestic palace on the eastern side of the village, surrounded by the Siachen River on one side and rows of Stupa on other. Hardly any tourist make a visit to this village as it remains cut off from other part of the valley by overflowing river. This village’s soil is rich in iron. In olden days, iron materials were being supplied from here to entire Ladakh region; therefore, literal meaning of Charasa is Iron- ore soil village.

2:40pm

We started our village clinic, all our medical supply for the tour got over and we had no other choice then to return back to our niche. We met a lady named Norzom with a seizure disorder, she lives with her mother and they managed to earn little amount of money by growing vegetables. Most of her earning goes into buying drugs for herself and often she had to discontinue the drugs and had episodes of seizure. So, both I and Dawa, decided to sponsored her treatment for next ten years. She was very happy and we were too as we had an opportunity to help out somebody in need.

3:40pm

We started our health education. There was very good response and they requested to us to visit their village again. We took group snaps and bade them farewell.

4:30pm

It was turning dark and we decided to hit back to our hospital by hitch hiking. Otherwise it is difficult to reach back home and we didn‚Äôt know where to stay. Dawa was quiet positive about reaching back home by midnight but I was bit scared and uncomfortable.  Anyhow, we reach on the roadside by 5:40pm and it was already dark and icy cold.

5:45pm

I asked him again, if it is a good idea to go back or to stay overnight in close by village. Luckily, we saw two head light approaching, it was a car and it stopped. We asked if we could get a lift till Disket. But driver told that he is going up to half way through to a village called Sumoor. Anyhow, we got into car.

6:30pm

We reached Summor village and we could see our hospital. It will take us at least 7 hours on foot if we follow the motor road, and there was a chance that we might get another lift. So, we started walking again. We took our torch light and prayed for a any car to pass through. Nothing happens for next 20 minute, I was bit scared and confused. There was many question our mind, was it a good decision to walk like this??

6:50pm

We could make out a car approaching in our direction, we were very happy, but car didn’t stopped. In fact, car sped up more on reaching close to us. We were amazed and then we thought, probably the car driver though that we were ghost or some alien because nobody walks at this point of time. We had a good laugh yet swearing at him.

7:20pm

Another car came, this time we remove our monkey cap and presented us in such a way that, hello!!! We are a human being. It worked, he stopped but unfortunately, he said he can give us lift up to the Khalsar bridge which is 25 km away from our destination. Then we though, ok!! At least we can reach back home by midnight.

7:45pm

Reached Khalsar bridge, restaurant nearby bridge was open. We decided to have a hot tea. Went inside, to our amazement, one our hospital co-worker was inside too. He was returning back from Leh and was heading to the same destination as ours. It was such a relief. We hopped into his car.

8:25pm

Back home. We were dead tired and hungry too. More tired then hungry, so we decided to sleep and postponed the cooking for next morning.
Good night.

Time:-9:08 am

We were ready for Hunder Dok with our bags are pack and shoes lace are tied, set out from Home Cum Office, SDH Disket Nubra.

Time:-9:32 am

We reached Organic Retreat by car (a black Alto) to collect some Medicine and to say hello and bye at same time to my Father and Brother. As we knew, there was long and tiring day awaiting us.

Time: – 10:17 am

Started walking from organic retreat towards Hunder Dok, which is located at the height of 16000 ft above sea level and 8 hours hiking distance. We had lots of question in our mind we didn’t share it but we could feel it.

Time:-10:49 am

We started climbing off-road on a human trail leading to top of the first mountain barrier

Time:-11:30 am

Took first break, we sat down, had water and lied down to take a deep breath, watching the steep road lying ahead.

Time:-11:58 am

Met first person in route, going in opposite direction. Shared greetings and he advised us to move fast or else we won’t be able to make it to village before dark.

Time:-12:52 pm

We have climbed the steep hill and it was really hard with the thin chilled air cutting my face but the elevation on hill made us sweat. We had apple on reaching the top. I have sun on my right and Ballu pa’s ruined kingdom on my left (Lost City) the apple is so sweet and juicy I wish the apple test same while I am home.

Time:-1:27 pm

We have cross Dok La, while we were climbing the sun on your face light up and encourage me to walk further. This small act of making people aware of healthy life is bringing out myself and I am finding myself relax and happy. When we saw a mountain it looks unconquerable but as you are on top of it you know why lots of people give up their life while climbing.

Time:-2:28 pm

Lunch Break, this place is a first night campaign site during tourist season know as Skarchen a nice place, but really away from everything we were tired and Dawa was preparing  some solja (Tea).

As the tea were boiling we had few guests Acho Sangdup, from Hunder Dok, Changchuk from Waachan , Acho Jigmet and Acho Tashi. Acho Tashi  looks like Mr Mark Robin(actor) from holly wood. They all were leading to same destination as ours.

Acho Sangdup is quite talkative and he told us that Acho Tashi (Robin) was really tired and he couldn’t keep up with them though he is from Hunder dok and they were making jock on him.

They got some brandy along them and as they invited us for a drink we said no and we decided to walk towards Hunder dok.

Time:-4:36 pm

Now we can see Hunder Dok. We were really tired and my mind was not working. We decided to lie down and take a nap for a while before we hit the village and the people.

Time:-5:52 pm

We reached , Headman of the village welcomed us with Phoks Anchor (Ladakhi way of welcoming) We had tea and biscuit at his house and I learn that his house is not our final resting place so we move to Acho Sangdup house who is a good friend of mine and it was 6:55 pm when we reached our final destination. Temperature outside was minus 12 already. Wondering what it would at midnight.

He work as food supplier, trekking guide and building contractor, He is the one who build the government’s medical aid center in his village.

Time:-11:40 pm

We are off to bed. Goodnight.

Day 2

November 21^st 2010

Time:-9:00 am

We are ready for a big day with a hope that our hard work will bring a little change in the health condition of the people.

11:00 am

Entire village’s people gathered to meet us. There were 50 peoples on the whole with 18 women and lots of old people. All of them wanted a health check up as it seems I was the first doctor to visit their village over the last one year. It was good that I carried lots of medicine along with me as I knew it before. So I started examining them one by one. Most of them had hypertension and acid peptic disease. After the health check up, I talked about Hypertension and Acid peptic disease, followed by separate health talk about cervical cancer to women. They all were listening attentively and as soon as I was done with talk, all the women clapped and appreciate my concern for their health. Each one of them offered white scarf to me and Dawa as a gesture of their appreciation. The most encouraging things for us were that we overheard them talking that; nobody has ever talked to them about women’s health as a separate topic before in their lifetime.

Time:-3:30 pm

Finally we got a time for lunch and there was an arrangement for lunch in headman’s house.

It was delicious. We had long conversation with headman and other representative about many health issues such as, when somebody get severe health problem it is impossible for them to transport the patient to hospital because of difficult route. Normally, one of the villager run down to valley to get medicine for the sick patient by telling the medical history to the doctor working in hospital. I promised them that in future I will be available in their village if such incident occurs in future.

Time:-4:00 pm

The day went really great and I think we made it.

We are now at Acho Sangdup’s house and the great sense of satisfaction on Dawa’s face showed that his feelings were much the same as mine.

6;00 pm

Many villagers came to invite us for a dinner and tea at their respective house. In fact, we paid visit to their house for tea and sat with them and talked about various health problem and difficult they have to face due to remoteness of their village.

7:30 pm

We were back at Acho Sangdup’s place. Four elderly villagers joined us for a dinner at his house. We talk lot regarding politics, black magic, and religious philosophy. What they really worried beside health problem was regarding the decreasing number of yak and their children has no interested in rearing yak. For centuries and centuries, they have been sustained by the yak and its product. Now they are afraid that, soon there will not be any yak in their village.

11:30 pm

Off to bed. Good night

Day 3
9; 00 am

Had break fast at Azang Sonam house Zimskang Pa and then another Breakfast at Acho Tashi’s house Phunchok Namgyal pa had lots.

9:45 am

We are back on track again with a smile and little proud.

Love all

12:09 pm

We reach to Skarchen where we had lunch break on 1^st day and today we are having Kholag (Abhi Chuskit prepare for our journey.

12:52 pm

We are on top of Hunder Dok la we played Dire Straits Sultan of Swing from my cell phone. I am so happyJ

4:31 pm

Back at starting point.

That’s all

For frost bite.